An Elegant Atwater Eatery
3219 Glendale Blvd.
Phone: 323-666-7133 | map | website

We were introduced to this gracefully subdued Atwater spot by our friends Kevin and Carla, who possess (in my opinion) much erudition in the realm of Los Angeles-based culinary awareness.

It's a cozy, friendly location, hip without being pretentious, with easygoing color and dark wood floors that are just uneven enough to give it a sense of warmth. The people at Canelé are concerned with good food, not their rating in magazines.

And the food is quietly brilliant. Roast chicken with polenta and stewed mushrooms? Bianca has much to say about it. I've had the Boeuf Bourgignon with buttered noodles, which is exactly as good as you'd expect it to be. It's one of the few places where I've sat and said nothing for a moment after a bite. Even the simple Farmer's Market salad is deceptive.

They also have spaghetti aglio olio, as a nod to the restaurant who was in this spot before, Osteria Nonni.

Dessert? Flourless chocolate cake. Yes, good. Better? Orange butter cake.

Yet upon your way out the door, after you're stuffed with all the desserts you sampled and the dinner you tried not to eat too energetically, you're offered a canelé, a fluted French pastry, from a plate. It's a nice way to end things.