Elegant Yet Humble French Cuisine in Silver Lake
3536 West Sunset Blvd. (at Maltman)
Phone: 323-662-4862 | map

This is tucked into a bruised brick building on the corner of Maltman and Sunset*, between a tattoo parlor with personality and several of those metal... say, what do you call those? You know, the small bins where for a few coins you can lift the lid, pull out a newspaper, and it bangs shut. Those things. With local L.A. papers in them.

Anyway. There is but one time we like to go to Madame Matisse: in the morning, to enjoy their supremely good omelettes or french toast with orange syrup or well-made eggs over medium.

(There was once two times we liked to go; the other was in the evening, when a chalkboard would list delectable dishes such as a scallop salad or penne with sundried tomatoes, mushrooms and feta. But, no more, it seems. You can of course get lunch there.)

The inside feels a little cramped for us, so we tend to sit outside on Saturday mornings, to watch the people trickling in and out of the local farmer's market down the street.

There's often a bit of a wait, as this is a favorite Silver Lake haunt, but it's worth it. You might be seated faster down the street at Millie's, but then you'll have to deal with all the rosemary they put on the potatoes.

* I'll tell you, it's tough to get a good photo of Madame Matisse. It's very cozy, hidden behind ugly street signs, metal cables, cars and newspaper bins, and you have to stand across the street to encompass it all. Bianca grabbed this shot as we drove by.