Now all I need is a cigar and some Astrud Gilberto
1966 Hillhurst Ave (in Los Feliz)
Phone: 323-644-1798 | map | website

The decor and the clientele encapsulate more of a "urbane international coffee house" appearance than rootsy Brazilian, but it has a vibe like seus amigos brasilian might accept its authenticity. Perhaps it's the TV flashing soap operas in Portuguese.

The tables are small and square and almost all provide a view of the brightly lit kitchen. Out of this kitchen comes large plates with salivation-inducing creations. Let's get to them.

The Sopa de Feijao is black bean soup, smooth like a samba, with salsa campanha hidden underneath a small white spoonful of queijo minero. Share this with whomever came with you tonight.

Tropicalia does seafood, chicken and pork equally well. The Brazipork is red and sultry in a deep iron skillet; the Salmaõ ao Molho de Mostarda is a long way to say Atlantic salmon in a creamy mustard sauce more zesty than tart, with brown rice and roasted vegetables somehow made shiny and beautiful.

If you like breaded & fried chicken without having it too breaded & fried, the Frango a Milanesa is your friend: chicken pounded and lightly pan-roasted into glistening planks, with thick black beans, a berm of white rice, and far too few slices of plantain (is Bossa Nova the only place that gives you more than two?).

The specialty is the Moqueca de Peixe, a choice of white fish, shrimp or both (of course you should get both) in dende oil and coconut milk sauce, with a few shreds of cilantro, tomatoes and onions for texture. Brazilian rice helps to keep it on the plate.

You probably won't have room for dessert, but... Brazilian Tiramisu? What's that about?

Parking is not restricted along the streets of Los Feliz, it's just unlikely. There's valet, though, if you want to hold up traffic on Hillhurst.